The Sunday Read: ‘My Miserable Week in the “Happiest Country on Earth’’’

For eight years running, Finland has been rated the happiest
country in the world by a peculiar United Nations-backed project
called the World Happiness Report, started in 2012. Soon after
Finland shot to the top of the list, its government set up a
“happiness tourism” initiative, which now offers itineraries
highlighting the cultural elements that ostensibly contribute to
its status: foraging, fresh air, trees, lakes, sustainably
produced meals and, perhaps above all else, saunas.


Instead of adhering to one of these optimal itineraries or
visiting Finland at the rosiest time of year (any time except the
dead of winter), Molly Young arrived with few plans at all during
one of the bleakest months. Would the happiest country on earth
still be so mirthful at its gloomiest?


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