EP 91: Jamie Brisick - Stories from a life in surfing, The difference between pro surfers then and now, Malibu in the 70s and 80s, Transforming from surfer to writer, Finding creativity, Life after the tour, Studying in Japan, and his new upcoming film

Writer, journalist, and former professional surfer Jamie Brisick
talks about the many phases of his life in surfing. He starts by
telling the story of his entrance to the sport, growing up in Los
Angeles in the Valley and earning his spot in the lineup at Malibu,
using surfing as the way to escape suburban mediocrity, competing
as an amateur, and having big dreams to pursue surfing as a career.
He details his experiences as a pro surfer, discovering the very
real delineation between amateur and pro, traveling to new places
around the world, enjoying the characters at the fringe of the
sport, seeing the difference between pro surfers then and now, and
working through the challenges of life after the tour. Finally, he
discusses his long career as a writer and journalist, how he finds
inspiration and creativity, filling the void left by surfing with
writing, studying youth culture in Japan on a Fulbright
Scholarship, processing tragedy through writing, and his upcoming
film “Becoming Westerly.” ----------- This podcast is brought to
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