Re-Air: EP 91: Jamie Brisick - Stories from a life in surfing, The difference between pro surfers then and now, Malibu in the 70s and 80s, Transforming from surfer to writer, Finding creativity, Life after the tour, and his new upcoming film

A Re-Air of our November 2021 episode with former pro surfer and
journalist Jamie Brisick. Writer, journalist, and former
professional surfer Jamie Brisick talks about the many phases of
his life in surfing. He starts by telling the story of his entrance
to the sport, growing up in Los Angeles in the Valley and earning
his spot in the lineup at Malibu, using surfing as the way to
escape suburban mediocrity, competing as an amateur, and having big
dreams to pursue surfing as a career. He details his experiences as
a pro surfer, discovering the very real delineation between amateur
and pro, traveling to new places around the world, enjoying the
characters at the fringe of the sport, seeing the difference
between pro surfers then and now, and working through the
challenges of life after the tour. Finally, he discusses his long
career as a writer and journalist, how he finds inspiration and
creativity, filling the void left by surfing with writing, studying
youth culture in Japan on a Fulbright Scholarship, processing
tragedy through writing, and his upcoming film “Becoming Westerly.”
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